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Product Details
Highlights
Haworthia cuspidata f. variegata (Haworth): Chunky rosette of fleshy leaves streaked with varying degrees of creamy variegation. The leaves are also marked by a mottling of translucent "leaf windows" that let sunlight in and help the plant tolerate low light conditions. It can grow large if its offsets are removed and the mother plant has room to spread. The authenticity of this species is debated by botanists, with some arguing that it is an intermediate between H. cymbiformis and H. retusa.
Please Note: Different plants can show different degrees of variegation. To maintain variegation, remove solid green leaves.
Haworthia are able to tolerate low, indoor light, making them excellent houseplants, even for beginners. They are particularly easy to grow and rarely affected by common succulent pests and diseases. Strong, drought-tolerant roots will grow if they have great drainage and infrequent water. Pick deep containers with drainage holes and a gritty, well-draining soil that is 50% to 70% mineral grit (coarse sand, pumice, or perlite). Water deeply enough for water to run out the drainage hole and allow the soil to completely dry before watering again.
This genus tolerates high heat by slowing down and eventually going dormant in the peak of summer. This means that, unlike other succulents, it is important not to over-water or fertilize during summer dormancy and water a bit more frequently in the winter growing season. Haworthia are slow growers and tend to stay small in pots, but they will produce new offsets in clumps around their bases. These offsets can be left to develop into a dense clump or pulled off and transplanted.
Product Size
2.0" Pot
Current Primary Color
Green
All Seasonal Colors
White
Bloom Color
White Bloom
Grow Zone (Hardiness)
Zone 10 (30F)
Recommended Light Conditions
Filtered / Partial Sun, Low Indoor Light
Maximum Height
3"-5"
Maximum Rosette Size
3"-4"
Growth Habit / Shape
Clumping / Mounding, Loose Rosette
Special Characteristic
Pet Safe, Variegated
THIS PLANT IS HARDY IN ZONES 10+
WHAT IS MY HARDINESS ZONE?
Videos
Questions & Answers
Popular Questions
Although it's somewhat vague and situational, unobstructed windows are a good way to think about it. Echeveria do best with southern exposures as these provide a lot of light. Haworthia cuspidata f. variegata can handle a lot less light. An eastern or western exposure is plenty for these plants.
Source: https://mountaincrestgardens.com/blog...
However, 65°F isn't too cold for many succulents. Especially once the radiant heat from direct sunlight in an south facing window is factored in, that you wouldn't feel in the air. The issue may have more to do with humidity than temperature. Looking at the relative humidity predictions for Stone County (just as an example) it's suppose to get over 70% in the near future! This makes watering more tricky as plants don't dry out nearly as quickly as they should and rot can set in as a result.
If your house is less humid than it is outdoors, then moving them inside may do them more good than shade cloth outside. In fact, shade cloth may only further prolong drying and exacerbate the problem.
Source: https://mountaincrestgardens.com/expl...
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Succulents need grittier soil than other plants because they are adapted to dry conditions and store water in their leaves. Regular potting soil mixes stay damp for long periods of time, which can cause rot in succulents. Instead, use a sandy, well-draining soil so you can water thoroughly without leaving your succulent in standing water.
IN POTS…
See full answer »Our plants can be transplanted immediately upon arrival.
If you want to wait to transplant, they can remain in their original containers for up to a month. If the pots came in a plastic carrier tray, remove the pots from the carrier tray prior to the first watering.
Keep the plants indoors near a sunny window or outdoors under a roof (only if outdoor temperatures stay above your succulent's minimum hardiness temperature). Water only after the soil is fully dry by drenching from above with a faucet, hose, or watering can. Gently shake excess water from the leaves and allow containers to drain completely.
Fertilizing is not necessary, but it is a good option for succulent growers who want to encourage faster, larger growth. It can be used on mature plants with established roots. Only fertilize in the growing season (spring and summer for most varieties) to avoid weakening or burning dormant plants. Use a light touch and make 2-3 applications of low-Nitrogen, diluted fertilizer each year (N-P-K ratio around 5-10-10). You can find specially-formulated cactus / succulent fertilizers in most garden centers or go organic with compost tea or bone meal.
Example: Miracle-Gro Quick Start, diluted to half strength
Succulents need deep, infrequent watering, especially during their growing season and when they are young and establishing roots. Only water after the soil is completely dry and the plant feels less firm. Err on the side of underwatering. Watering too frequently is the most common way to kill succulents.
HOW TO WATER SUCCULENTS
- Drench from above using a faucet, hose, or watering can
- Do not mist with a spray bottle (the only exception is for Air Plants)
- Water until it drains from the container's drainage hole. If your container does not have a drainage hole (not recommended), use about 1/3 the volume of the container…
Different succulent varieties have different light needs. You can find the Recommended Light Conditions on each variety's page by scrolling down to the Product Details. We use four categories of recommended light, and some plants can thrive under a range of light conditions.
LOW INDOOR LIGHT
- Can grow indoors without direct sun.
- Placing outdoors in direct sun or on sunny window sills might cause dark burns.
- There are a limited number of succulent varieties that thrive in low light, notably Haworthia, Gasteria, Peperomia, and some Jade…
