Product Details
Highlights
Haworthia coarctata var. tenuis (now known as Haworthiopsis): This variety has the Latin name tenuis, or "slender", for its thin leaves and its tall, narrow rosette. The leaves keep stacking up on top of each other, reaching over 6.0" tall. It's covered in a pattern of white dots. Moderate stress from bright sunlight and drought will induce pink blushing; too much stress will lead to dry, brown leaf tips.
Haworthia are able to tolerate low, indoor light, making them excellent houseplants, even for beginners. They are particularly easy to grow and rarely affected by common succulent pests and diseases. Strong, drought-tolerant roots will grow if they have great drainage and infrequent water. Pick deep containers with drainage holes and a gritty, well-draining soil that is 50% to 70% mineral grit (coarse sand, pumice, or perlite). Water deeply enough for water to run out the drainage hole and allow the soil to completely dry before watering again.
This genus tolerates high heat by slowing down and eventually going dormant in the peak of summer. This means that, unlike other succulents, it is important not to over-water or fertilize during summer dormancy and water a bit more frequently in the winter growing season. Haworthia are slow growers and tend to stay small in pots, but they will produce new offsets in clumps around their bases. These offsets can be left to develop into a dense clump or pulled off and transplanted.
Product Size
2.0" Pot
Current Primary Color
Green
All Seasonal Colors
Pink
Bloom Color
White Bloom
Grow Zone (Hardiness)
Zone 10 (30F)
Recommended Light Conditions
Filtered / Partial Sun, Low Indoor Light
Maximum Height
6"-8"
Maximum Rosette Size
Under 3"
Growth Habit / Shape
Loose Rosette, Vertical Grower / Tall Stem
Seasonality
Summer Dormant Partial
Special Characteristic
Hard to Kill, Slow Grower, Pet Safe
THIS PLANT IS HARDY IN ZONES 10+
WHAT IS MY HARDINESS ZONE?
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Questions & Answers
Popular Questions
If you don't find any blackened or slimy roots, but the rootball is damp, still repot it into dry soil as a preventative measure.
It would also be a good idea to move the plant to a place that gets more sunlight.
It will take a considerable amount of time for the rosette to form its own roots. Infrequently check its progress by gently pulling on the rosette. If it feels firmly attached to the soil, it has likely formed roots. Be gentle and don't check for rooting often as frequent checks can damage young roots.
Source: https://mountaincrestgardens.com/blog...
However, 65°F isn't too cold for many succulents. Especially once the radiant heat from direct sunlight in an south facing window is factored in, that you wouldn't feel in the air. The issue may have more to do with humidity than temperature. Looking at the relative humidity predictions for Stone County (just as an example) it's suppose to get over 70% in the near future! This makes watering more tricky as plants don't dry out nearly as quickly as they should and rot can set in as a result.
If your house is less humid than it is outdoors, then moving them inside may do them more good than shade cloth outside. In fact, shade cloth may only further prolong drying and exacerbate the problem.
Source: https://mountaincrestgardens.com/expl...
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Succulents need grittier soil than other plants because they are adapted to dry conditions and store water in their leaves. Regular potting soil mixes stay damp for long periods of time, which can cause rot in succulents. Instead, use a sandy, well-draining soil so you can water thoroughly without leaving your succulent in standing water.
IN POTS…
See full answer »Our plants can be transplanted immediately upon arrival.
If you want to wait to transplant, they can remain in their original containers for up to a month. If the pots came in a plastic carrier tray, remove the pots from the carrier tray prior to the first watering.
Keep the plants indoors near a sunny window or outdoors under a roof (only if outdoor temperatures stay above your succulent's minimum hardiness temperature). Water only after the soil is fully dry by drenching from above with a faucet, hose, or watering can. Gently shake excess water from the leaves and allow containers to drain completely.
