Haworthia cymbiformis var. incurvula

$5.99

SKU:S2JN3442

  • Haworthia cymbiformis var. incurvula
  • Haworthia cymbiformis var. incurvula
 
$5.99
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Haworthia cymbiformis var. incurvula (Bayer): A small, narrow-leaved variety of H. cymbiformis that grows well and produces numerous offsets. Its juicy leaves curve inward and are lined with "leaf windows" that help the plant tolerate low-light conditions.

Haworthia are able to tolerate low, indoor light, making them excellent houseplants, even for beginners. They are particularly easy to grow and rarely affected by common succulent pests and diseases. Strong, drought-tolerant roots will grow if they have great drainage and infrequent water. Pick deep containers with drainage holes and a gritty, well-draining soil that is 50% to 70% mineral grit (coarse sand, pumice, or perlite). Water deeply enough for water to run out the drainage hole and allow the soil to completely dry before watering again.

Haworthia are slow growers and tend to stay small in pots, but they will produce new offsets in clumps around their bases. These offsets can be left to develop into a dense clump or pulled off and transplanted.

Full Haworthia Guide

Product Size

2.0" Pot

Current Primary Color

Green

Bloom Color

White Bloom

Grow Zone (Hardiness)

Zone 10 (30F)

Recommended Light Conditions

Filtered / Partial Sun, Low Indoor Light

Maximum Height

Under 3"

Maximum Rosette Size

3"-4"

Growth Habit / Shape

Loose Rosette

Seasonality

Winter Dormant Partial

Special Characteristic

Easy to Propagate, Pet Safe, Hard to Kill

USDA Zone map for average annual extreme minimum temperatures

THIS PLANT IS HARDY IN ZONES 10+

10

WHAT IS MY HARDINESS ZONE?

0

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Popular Questions

3 years ago
Haworthia cymbiformis var incurvula See more »
3 years ago  •  Staff Answer
Good question!

This plant comes already in a 2 inch pot so the root ball will be roughly 2x2x2 inches already. You will want to give the plant a little more room than that to root in, but not too much room, which would hold too much moisture.

I would recommend using a 3.5 to 4 inch pot to transplant it into. I've personally had great success with Haworthia in 3.5 inch pots. I hope this helps!
0 | 0
3 years ago
3 years ago  •  Staff Answer
If the plant comes in a 2" pot, I'd plant in a pot that's, at least 3.5" deep. However, I wouldn't plant it in a pot that's deeper than 5" to start. Haworthia like their roots to be a little tight so be sure not to over pot it at first.
0 | 0
1 year ago
Zone 4/5 here. My succulents live indoors in the winter and need supplementary light to avoid stretching. Would love to know what artificial lights you use/recommend. Full spectrum (white), grow spectrum (blue/purple), other? Do you have a preferred brand of lighting? How many hours extra are needed for soft, hard, other, succulents? See more »
1 year ago  •  Staff Answer
Yes! You can find grow light specs and recommended types here on our Guide to Grow Lights for Succulents.
Source: https://mountaincrestgardens.com/blog...
0 | 0
2 years ago
We live in north central Arkansas. It gets brutally humid and hot during the late spring, summer, and early fall months. I have all my succulents on my west facing porch because the backyard belongs to our Cavalier King Charles Spaniels.
Would getting a porch shade be a good idea for the summer in late afternoon? All my succulents get the mid afternoon sun and I know it's too much for some of them but bringing them inside our too cool temp home doesn't help either. Even when I put them in an East facing window they still don't seem to do so well because of the indoor temp. See more »
2 years ago  •  Staff Answer
The only issue with porch shades is that they're frequently too shady. If you erected some kind of shade using shade cloth designed for plants, that could help. You wouldn't need it to be too shady, roughly 30%-40% would do the trick.

However, 65°F isn't too cold for many succulents. Especially once the radiant heat from direct sunlight in an south facing window is factored in, that you wouldn't feel in the air. The issue may have more to do with humidity than temperature. Looking at the relative humidity predictions for Stone County (just as an example) it's suppose to get over 70% in the near future! This makes watering more tricky as plants don't dry out nearly as quickly as they should and rot can set in as a result.

If your house is less humid than it is outdoors, then moving them inside may do them more good than shade cloth outside. In fact, shade cloth may only further prolong drying and exacerbate the problem.
1 | 0
3 years ago
3 years ago  •  Staff Answer
Your best bet are low light succulents. They'll get some morning sun but no more. Click the link below to see all our low light succulents.
Source: https://mountaincrestgardens.com/expl...
0 | 0
4 years ago
4 years ago  •  Staff Answer

Shop Succulent Soil Here

Succulents need grittier soil than other plants because they are adapted to dry conditions and store water in their leaves. Regular potting soil mixes stay damp for long periods of time, which can cause rot in succulents. Instead, use a sandy, well-draining soil so you can water thoroughly without leaving your succulent in standing water.

IN POTS…

See full answer »
43 | 0
4 years ago
4 years ago  •  Staff Answer

Our plants can be transplanted immediately upon arrival.
If you want to wait to transplant, they can remain in their original containers for up to a month. If the pots came in a plastic carrier tray, remove the pots from the carrier tray prior to the first watering.

Keep the plants indoors near a sunny window or outdoors under a roof (only if outdoor temperatures stay above your succulent's minimum hardiness temperature). Water only after the soil is fully dry by drenching from above with a faucet, hose, or watering can. Gently shake excess water from the leaves and allow containers to drain completely.

56 | 1
4 years ago
4 years ago  •  Staff Answer

Fertilizing is not necessary, but it is a good option for succulent growers who want to encourage faster, larger growth. It can be used on mature plants with established roots. Only fertilize in the growing season (spring and summer for most varieties) to avoid weakening or burning dormant plants. Use a light touch and make 2-3 applications of low-Nitrogen, diluted fertilizer each year (N-P-K ratio around 5-10-10). You can find specially-formulated cactus / succulent fertilizers in most garden centers or go organic with compost tea or bone meal.

Example: Miracle-Gro Quick Start, diluted to half strength

36 | 3
4 years ago
4 years ago  •  Staff Answer

Succulents need deep, infrequent watering, especially during their growing season and when they are young and establishing roots. Only water after the soil is completely dry and the plant feels less firm. Err on the side of underwatering. Watering too frequently is the most common way to kill succulents.

HOW TO WATER SUCCULENTS

  • Drench from above using a faucet, hose, or watering can
  • Do not mist with a spray bottle (the only exception is for Air Plants)
  • Water until it drains from the container's drainage hole. If your container does not have a drainage hole (not recommended), use about 1/3 the volume of the container…
See full answer »
35 | 2
4 years ago
4 years ago  •  Staff Answer

Different succulent varieties have different light needs. You can find the Recommended Light Conditions on each variety's page by scrolling down to the Product Details. We use four categories of recommended light, and some plants can thrive under a range of light conditions.

LOW INDOOR LIGHT

  • Can grow indoors without direct sun.
  • Placing outdoors in direct sun or on sunny window sills might cause dark burns.
  • There are a limited number of succulent varieties that thrive in low light, notably Haworthia, Gasteria, Peperomia, and some Jade…
See full answer »
19 | 1
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