Crassula arborescens 'Blue Hale' Jade
SKU:S2KN1309
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Highlights
'Blue Hale' Jade (Crassula arborescens): Easy-to-grow Jade Plant with leaves lined by a fine red border. The fleshy, blue-green leaves grow to roughly 4.0" long. They are covered in powdery farina that helps them tolerate full sun and gives them a silvery tone. 'Blue Hale' produces delicate flowers, ranging from white to pale pink. It generally grows up to 12.0" tall and is ideal for mid-sized pots.
Soft succulents will not survive a hard frost, but if there is a risk of freezing temperatures they can be brought indoors to grow on a sunny window sill or under a grow light. They need ample sunlight, great drainage, and infrequent water to prevent rot. Pick containers with drainage holes and use well-draining cactus and succulent soil with 50% to 70% mineral grit such as coarse sand, pumice, or perlite. Water deeply enough for water to run out the drainage hole, then wait for the soil to fully dry before watering again.
Crassula can show tiny white or black dots on their leaves. These are healthy, water-transferring pores called "hydathodes" and not a sign of disease.
Product Size
2.0" Pot
Current Primary Color
Silver
All Seasonal Colors
Blue / Blue-green
Bloom Color
White Bloom
Grow Zone (Hardiness)
Zone 10 (30F)
Recommended Light Conditions
Filtered / Partial Sun, Low Indoor Light
Maximum Height
Over 12"
Growth Habit / Shape
Shrub
Special Characteristic
Easy to Propagate
THIS PLANT IS HARDY IN ZONES 10+
10
WHAT IS MY HARDINESS ZONE?
Videos
Learn when and how to water Crassula, where they grow best, wh...
Questions & Answers
Popular Questions
• Staff Answer
Although we don't have a blue bird jade in our greenhouses to compare it to, they are likely the same thing. They are both cultivars on the same species Crassula arborescens, and they both feature very blue leaves. In some online photos though, this "blue bird jade" appears to have slightly broader leaves than our Blue Hale jade.
• Staff Answer
Although there's no technical definition of a jade plant, blue hale jade does have that common name and its care needs are very similar to the most famous jade plant, Crassula ovata. You can only plant it outdoors if you live in a frost free area as it is a zone 10 plant.
• Staff Answer
We want to first preface this by saying that bonsai is an art form. How you decide to shape or trim your bonsai is up to you and will be informed by how you want your plant to look.
First, plant the Jade Plant in a shallow pot, about 3"-4" deep, that has a drainage hole. We highly recommend using this Bonsai Jack Gritty Mix as soil. Aim to grow it in partial sun. Only water if the soil is completely dry and the leaves feel flexible. When you do water, deeply drench it until water runs out the pot's drainage hole. Potentially, support the main stem with a skewer.
After about a year in the shallow pot, it's time for the first trim. It's preferable to trim in the spring when your plant is actively growing. Be very aggressive with your pruning. What you're looking for with your first trim is, essentially, to turn your plant into a twig. You'll remove most of the foliage, just be careful not to remove it all. Wherever you prune, the plant will fill that spot with even more foliage. Use this to your advantage by heavily… See full answer »
First, plant the Jade Plant in a shallow pot, about 3"-4" deep, that has a drainage hole. We highly recommend using this Bonsai Jack Gritty Mix as soil. Aim to grow it in partial sun. Only water if the soil is completely dry and the leaves feel flexible. When you do water, deeply drench it until water runs out the pot's drainage hole. Potentially, support the main stem with a skewer.
After about a year in the shallow pot, it's time for the first trim. It's preferable to trim in the spring when your plant is actively growing. Be very aggressive with your pruning. What you're looking for with your first trim is, essentially, to turn your plant into a twig. You'll remove most of the foliage, just be careful not to remove it all. Wherever you prune, the plant will fill that spot with even more foliage. Use this to your advantage by heavily… See full answer »
• Staff Answer
Shop Succulent Soil Here
Succulents need grittier soil than other plants because they are adapted to dry conditions and store water in their leaves. Regular potting soil mixes stay damp for long periods of time, which can cause rot in succulents. Instead, use a sandy, well-draining soil so you can water thoroughly without leaving your succulent in standing water.
IN POTS…
See full answer »
• Staff Answer
Our plants can be transplanted immediately upon arrival.
If you want to wait to transplant, they can remain in their original containers for up to a month. If the pots came in a plastic carrier tray, remove the pots from the carrier tray prior to the first watering.
Keep the plants indoors near a sunny window or outdoors under a roof (only if outdoor temperatures stay above your succulent's minimum hardiness temperature). Water only after the soil is fully dry by drenching from above with a faucet, hose, or watering can. Gently shake excess water from the leaves and allow containers to drain completely.
• Staff Answer
Fertilizing is not necessary, but it is a good option for succulent growers who want to encourage faster, larger growth. It can be used on mature plants with established roots. Only fertilize in the growing season (spring and summer for most varieties) to avoid weakening or burning dormant plants. Use a light touch and make 2-3 applications of low-Nitrogen, diluted fertilizer each year (N-P-K ratio around 5-10-10). You can find specially-formulated cactus / succulent fertilizers in most garden centers or go organic with compost tea or bone meal.
Example: Miracle-Gro Quick Start, diluted to half strength
• Staff Answer
Succulents need deep, infrequent watering, especially during their growing season and when they are young and establishing roots. Only water after the soil is completely dry and the plant feels less firm. Err on the side of underwatering. Watering too frequently is the most common way to kill succulents.
HOW TO WATER SUCCULENTS
- Drench from above using a faucet, hose, or watering can
- Do not mist with a spray bottle (the only exception is for Air Plants)
- Water until it drains from the container's drainage hole. If your container does not have a drainage hole (not recommended), use about 1/3 the volume of the container…
• Staff Answer
Different succulent varieties have different light needs. You can find the Recommended Light Conditions on each variety's page by scrolling down to the Product Details. We use four categories of recommended light, and some plants can thrive under a range of light conditions.
LOW INDOOR LIGHT
- Can grow indoors without direct sun.
- Placing outdoors in direct sun or on sunny window sills might cause dark burns.
- There are a limited number of succulent varieties that thrive in low light, notably Haworthia, Gasteria, Peperomia, and some Jade…
• Staff Answer
Many succulent varieties are only available seasonally because of their growing and propagation cycles. During the growing season, we can usually restock sets and trays weekly. Most individual plants will go in and out of stock through the seasons, but they are also restocked weekly when available. Thursday is usually the best day of the week for finding plants in stock. Spring and Summer are generally the best seasons for availability.
Any product that is out of stock has an "Email me when a product is back in stock" button (shown above). Click the button and enter your email to be notified when it's available again. If this button isn't appearing, the plant may have very recently sold out - check back after a short while and the button should appear.
• Staff Answer
35%-70% isopropyl alcohol works well for killing both mealybugs and spider mites. Spray the affected plant thoroughly, and keep spraying daily until you see no more evidence of pests. General pest prevention strategies include:
- Using very gritty succulent soil and pots with drainage holes
- Providing lots of sunlight and airflow
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